Kowloon Park Tour
Seems there’s not much to do in Hong Kong but shop and eat, and I finished my shopping bit yesterday spending an hour or so at HMV (normally I try to avoid chain music stores but I’m starved for music and there is little choice here) buying 2 CDs: Aimee Mann’s “I’m with Stupid” and Manu Chao’s new one, “La Radiolina,” which I’m listening to for the first time as I write this. So that leaves eating, and if I do much more of that I’m going to explode.
So I had to figure out how I’d spend my afternoon-my last full day in HK. I was on my own so I could set my own itinerary. Of course, I had to eat first to give me the energy to explore the city on foot. I only had HK$100 in my wallet (about $13 US) to last the whole day so it would have to be cheap. Chinese food can be inexpensive here, but I was already right sick of Chinese, especially the greasy foods we’ve been eating here such as duck and pork and pan fried noodles. (I will, however, have Dim Sum tomorrow-can’t miss a chance for good Dim Sum in Hong Kong and we haven’t had time yet.) I was in the mood for a sandwich, but unfortunately all the Pret a Manger locations are on the other side on Hong Kong Island, and I was too hungry to go that far.
I walked down Nathan Road-the main thoroughfare in Kowloon-and then Haiphong Road, another congested main road. I decided to take a turn down one of the less traveled and dingier side streets hoping the places there would be cheaper. I briefly considered stopping in a noodle shop because I love noodle soup, but it looked pretty bleak. Next door was a Turkish place. I was skeptical, but it was full and most of the staff looked sufficiently Turkish, so I decided to give it a try. Turned out to be delightful and quick, and pretty healthy too. And more importantly, it was cheap at HK$50 for a chicken doner roll (thinly sliced chicken with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and a delicious sauce on pita), a cup of creamy lentil soup and bottled water. Actually, this was probably the best meal I’ve had so far in Hong Kong and absolutely the best value; most of our prior meals have been in LKF, Central-a very pricy district with mostly overpriced establishments. Even the Whisky Priest Irish pub was expensive, although at least the burger there was tasty.
I was out of Istanbul Express in 30 minutes. I decided I would check out Kowloon Park which borders Nathan Road and Haiphong Road on two of its sides. It’s gorgeous out today (about 21C/70F and sunny). The park is small compared to Central Park but it’s bigger than Washington Square Park. It is very serene compared to the pedestrian clogged streets just outside. Frankly, I’m really tired of looking at commerce and wanted to be in a place where no one tried to sell me anything like a Rolex copy or a custom-tailored suit. (Actually, later I discovered there is a McDonald’s inside the park.) A beautiful high-rising, geyser-like fountain greeted me near the Haiphong entrance. I sat there for a while to start writing this in my notebook while a young girl in a graduation cap and gown posed for pictures with her friends.
During my walk, I observed a few old guys doing Tai Chi or something and several other groups of locals practicing dance routines, some involving swords. A creepy guy tried to make eye contact with me at the park’s public urinal. Every park I’ve ever been to-no matter how small or urbane-has had its share of creeps and freaks. Why should Hong Kong be any different?
I ended up spending about two hours in the park-a good way to spend time in an expensive city without spending any money. Other attractions in Kowloon Park include an aviary with tropical birds, gardens, a bird lake with exotic ducks and flamingos, a gigantic swimming pool which now sits empty due to the season and a soccer field. There is also the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center which I stopped in for a few minutes to see the exhibit on Hong Kong’s history and cultural heritage.
I’m absolutely a parks person and think they represent the best things about cities and governments along with libraries. These are places for people to hang out freely (mostly anyway) together or alone at no cost. Locals and tourists mingle. People exercise, sleep, read. Kids play. Parks really give me a feel for a new place so I like to visit them when I travel. Seeing so many people there gives me a really good feeling. I really miss Central Park more than almost anything in New York.
Having nothing really to do today, it was good just to wander. It was small enough where I wasn’t going to get lost, and I had a map just in case. There were signs all over the park pointing toward a Footbridge to Hong Kong City, China. I was confused at what this meant-I didn’t think it meant Hong Kong Island after looking at a map, but was hoping it was. Kind of like walking across the Brooklyn Bridge (which I only ever walked about halfway across), it would be cool to walk from Kowloon to HK Island. But, after crossing over an expressway, the footbridge ended at the harbor and ferry terminal with service to Macau and Mainland China. (I’m still not sure what HK City, China refers to. It’s on my map-could be another mall or a building or port.) I was disappointed that I’d reached the end of the line but I was pleased with the spectacular view of the skyline across the harbor. Hong Kong really is visually stunning and unique city with its mountains and water and hilliness and many skyscrapers (it’s up there with San Francisco), but unfortunately it always seems to be covered in a layer of smoggy haze.
I wish I had brought my camera today, but all I had was my phone. I took a few shots but they’re pretty crappy (as usual as I’m a hack photographer), so I’ve posted here a few pics from the web, which approximate where I was today.
