What exactly is organic?
Anyway, back to the cookbook. I was drawn to a section about the complexities of the definition of organic food, which I try to eat more and more of these days. Last year, a farmer I spoke to at the Union Square greenmarket basically said that the USDA’s organic label was a farce. Being certified organic didn’t mean what it used to mean, he claimed. I was skeptical, but I had a feeling there was something to it. I’ve noticed lately that organic produce and packaged organic food has become more and more widespread. You can even by organic milk and eggs and other products at Costco, not exactly the bastion of healthy eating. I’m glad these products are more readily available, but the cynic in me has sensed that all is not what it’s cracked up to be, especially when the United States government is involved.
What I read today in the Angelica cookbook added more ammunition to my suspicions. According to the book, when big agri-business started to sense the profit potential of “organic” agriculture, they teamed up with the good folks at the USDA to make sure that the standard of organic was as minimal as possible to ensure maximum profitability. These industrial scale corporate farms are easily crowding out small scale farmers who have been farming organically for years while simultaneously diluting the value of the organic label.
The farmer who I met at the Union Square market last year, John Gorzynski, was actually in the Angelica book. He reveals that organically certified foods are allowed to contain several synthetic materials such as mono- and diglycerides, unbeknownst to many uninformed consumers such as myself. The other points hammered home by the book are: (1) the U.S. government definition of organic does not include the social and cultural elements of local agriculture, integral to the traditional definition of organic agriculture; (2) One should buy as much as possible directly from local family farmers who care about people, plants, animals and the land.